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Tuesday 12 January 2016

Maria Denmark's "Kristen Kimono Tee"

After making sooooo many skirts (both of the pencil and a-line variety) it seemed about time to try my hand at making a t-shirt to go with all those skirts. I had downloaded the free (if you subscribe to her newsletter) Maria Denmark "Kristen Kimono Tee" about 18 months ago so thought it was possibly time to whip one up.



Sadly my first attempt was too snug as I didn't read the instructions prior to cutting out my fabric. If I had I would have realized that the pattern does not come with seam allowances included...ugh. If I had added the 1cm seam allowance as suggested I think the top would've been ok, but now it resides in the bin. For some reason I didn't have the PDF pattern on my computer at home, so I unsubscribed to the newsletter, re-subscribed and got myself a new copy of the PDF pattern. It would appear that since my first download of the pattern Maria Denmark has added more sizes to the larger end of the size specturm which suits me. After laying the old pattern over the new pattern I decided to cut a 3XL (leaving it at 4XL at the shoulders to give me more room in the sleeves). I decided that the 3XL would be big enough without me adding seam allowances as it is quite a bit bigger than her previous biggest sizes.

I am pleased to report...WE HAVE A WINNER!


This pattern was only intended to be a toile, but I decided to sew it up "properly" to make sure I could do all the steps without faffing it up. I decided not to add a neckband as frustratingly the pattern does not include a pattern piece for the neckband, you have to draft one yourself - life's too short for that!  I decided to treat the neckline the same as the Mandy Boat Tee - simply by overlocking the back and front neckpiece, turn under (with the help of Wondertape), zigzag stitch and then stitch up the shoulder seams. This has worked really well, but in the past these type of neckbands have stretched out and I'm not sure why. My inner OCD wants to give the neck a good tug to see if it'll stretch, but I'm trying to hardest not to do that!


The seams on the sleeves were also treated in the same way - finished before sewing up the side seams. I'm pretty happy with how they look and they feel very comfortable.


The top is also sitting very well at the back neckline -- though I think the neck is a smidge wide as my bra strap does show at the shoulders.  I don't think it's such a big deal though...not enough to think about how to fix it.


I like the back view of the tee - though next time I'll make it marginally tighter at the hips so it doesn't just "hang" - I think that's a better look to go with my A-line skirts.  There is a bit of pooling at the curve of my back - but I don't mind that at all...I like that the tee is loose at the back as I don't care for fitted tops.


I decided that I liked this toile so much that it was worth hemming it and sewing in the overlocking threads so I can actually wear it. Next up I hope to make a version in black.

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Pattern: "Kristen Kimono Tee" by Maria Denmark
Size: size 3XL (no seam allowance added); with size 4XL at the shoulders
Modifications: none
Fabric: some sort of knit from Addicted to Fabric (Canberra)

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